A neighbourhood fixture since 1952, the Chinese-Canadian restaurant South Pacific still serves the classics, a style of cooking they call “humble and joyful”.
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At Taqueria el Pastorcito, Irapuato-style tacos are served alongside music from Los Aventureros, a four-piece mariachi band, if you stop in on the right night.
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At Xawaash, a Somali food blog-turned-restaurant, owners Leila Adde and Abdullahi Kassim consider their dishes a legacy for the next generation. “It makes us feel very happy, you know. That this has become a gathering place. Because for us, this isn’t just a business. It’s more like family.”
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Death metal bassist Miguel Angel Garcia recently expanded his made-from-home churros business into a commercial kitchen in the back of Steadfast Brewing, where he preps killer birria tacos, tamales and other Mexican street-food classics. When he works, he says, he’s always blasting music. “I like to feel like I’m at a party”
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We work in the sky, in an unfinished highrise. The ground floors are almost ready, but higher up, where there are no windows or walls, the building is open to the sky. We are deep in the belly of the beast, building towers in the financial district, building restaurants we can’t afford to eat in, condos we can’t afford to live in.
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